Best Books About Surfing You Need to Read
Surfing isn’t just a sport; it’s a way of life for many – and whether you’re waiting for the perfect wave or reminiscing about your last surf trip, there’s something magical about diving into a good book about surfing. The right book can transport you to far-off beaches, introduce you to legendary surfers, and even help you improve your own skills.
From the tales of pioneering surfers who discovered new waves to modern stories that capture the essence of the surf culture, surfing books can offer unique insights and endless inspiration. Some of these books become cherished, timeless classics, while others bring fresh perspectives and techniques to the art of surfing.
If you can’t be out in the water, it’s a perfect way to stay connected to the surf lifestyle. Whether you’re seeking adventure, history, or practical tips, there’s a surfing book out there waiting for you to explore. Dive into the pages and let these stories fuel your passion for the ocean!
Classic Surf Literature
When it comes to surf literature, some books have stood the test of time and remain must-reads for any surfer – capturing the spirit of surfing and at times sharing timeless pieces of wisdom. Here are a few you should add to your reading list:
- “The Endless Summer” by Bruce Brown – This book accompanies the iconic surf documentary of the same name. It follows two surfers as they travel around the world in search of the perfect wave. The vivid descriptions and stunning photography make it a must-read.
- “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” by William Finnegan – This Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir dives deep into the author’s lifelong relationship with surfing. Finnegan’s tales of chasing waves across the globe are both engaging and enlightening.
- “Surfing Illustrated” by John Robison – While it might be considered more of a manual, this book offers a comprehensive look at the techniques and culture of surfing. It’s packed with information that beginners and experienced surfers alike will find valuable!
These classics offer more than just great stories; they encapsulate the history and culture of surfing. Whether you are new to the ocean or have been surfing for years, these books help foster a deeper appreciation of the art of riding waves!
Modern Books About Surfing
The world of surfing literature is always evolving, with new releases that offer fresh perspectives and insights. Modern books about surfing often incorporate current trends and advancements, making them particularly relevant for today’s surfers. Here are some recent releases worth checking out:
- “Empire of Waves: A Surfing History of Hawaii” by Isaiah Helekunihi Walker – This book explores the deep-rooted connection between surfing and Hawaiian culture. It delves into the historic significance of the sport and how it has shaped, and been shaped, by Hawaiian society.
- “Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea” by Jaimal Yogis – Combining memoir with philosophy, this book follows the author’s journey to find peace and purpose through surfing. It’s an inspirational read for those looking to connect with the ocean and themselves on a deeper level.
- “The History of Surfing” by Matt Warshaw – This comprehensive text covers the global history of surfing, documenting its evolution and the impact it has had on cultures globally. It’s an essential read for anyone interested in the broader context of what surfing has brought to the world.
Many modern publications are providing new information as well as reflections on current challenges and opportunities in the surfing world – blending historical and technical insights with personal narratives to inspire you to see surfing in a new light and appreciate it’s ever-changing dynamics.
Biographies Of Legendary Surfers
With so many legendary surfers, biographies are becoming ever more popular. Gifting a deep dive into the lives of surfers who have made a significant impact on the surfing world, here are some insightful biographies worth reading:
- “Kelly Slater: For the Love” by Kelly Slater – This autobiography gives readers a glimpse into the life of one of the greatest surfers of all time. Kelly Slater shares stories from his career, personal challenges, and his thoughts on surfing.
- “Bethany Hamilton: Soul Surfer” by Bethany Hamilton – Bethany Hamilton’s story is one of triumph over adversity. After losing her arm in a shark attack, she returned to competitive surfing and became a beacon of hope. Her biography captures her resilience and passion for the sport.
- “Bustin’ Down the Door” by Shaun Tomson – This book tells the story of Shaun Tomson and a group of young surfers who revolutionized surfing in the 1970s. It’s an exciting glimpse into a transformative period in surfing history.
These biographies offer more than just personal stories; they reveal the dedication, hard work, and love for the ocean that drive these legendary surfers – lessons, insights and inspiration that can help to provide the stroke and drive to overcome your own challenges.
How Surfing Books Can Improve Your Skills
Surfing books can be excellent resources for improving your skills. Many provide practical tips and techniques that you can apply directly in the water. Here are some books known for their valuable surfing advice:
- “Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing” by Tony Butt – Understanding the science of waves can drastically improve your surfing. This book breaks down complex wave dynamics into easy-to-understand concepts.
- “The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer” by Raul Guisado – This manual covers everything from paddling techniques to advanced manoeuvres. It’s a great book for surfers looking to take their skills to the next level!
- “Fit to Surf: The Surfer’s Guide to Strength and Conditioning” by Rocky Snyder – Physical fitness is crucial for surfing. This book offers workout routines specifically designed to enhance surfing performance.
Whether you’re practising paddling, improving your balance, or learning about wave patterns, the information is out there to help you become a better surfer!
Whether you’re captivated by classic surfing literature, intrigued by modern tales, inspired by biographies of legendary surfers, or eager to improve your skills, the information is out there – the journey of becoming a better surfer isn’t always just about the waves you catch! AWAVE Travel connects you to the best surf experiences around the world, offering free expert advice, the best pricing, and personal service. Get in touch with us to start planning your next adventure today!